We leave Refuge JM Blanc to follow the track that takes to the dam of the Black Lake. Then we border it until we arrive upon the Estany of the Ferro. We turn to the South through rocky ground until the foot of the track, very visible under the vertical of the “taca clara” (1h. 30 ‘).
We go up by grassy and rocky meadows until the foot of a channel that leads to a breach of the edge, under the “taca clara” (40m II). We leave by the channel until the edge and we take a dihedron to the right returning again to the edge by the left. (30m III i IV). We follow the edge getting round difficulties by the plate of the right (30m III). We follow the line of the edge until unstable blocks to the foot of the “Dau” visible from down. (25m III). We descend a few meters by the left of the edge and go up by grassy meadows and rocky blocks returning to the right until the edge behind the “Dau” (40m III i II). We go up through slabs by the right slope until we gain the edge and follow it until arriving at a cornice in the left slope (35m III+ i III). We follow the cornice about two meters and go up vertically by a fissure until the blocks of the top (15m III).
We go down until the mountain pass of Veloki Channel and go down it until the foot of the route. It is also possible to return flanking by the South slope until the mountain pass of Muntayó and going down from there to the refuge .
- B.D. Shedule of 1st ascent: 3h. 30′.
- Material: Varied pegs and wedges.
- First ascent: 13 of August 1979 by Núria Soler, Jaume Fernandez and Carles Mitjà.